Evening blue bloods.
Hope all is well in your land and your denim blood is looking forward to enjoying Autumn as we leave summer behind?! Autumn = layers yeah! A = finally get chance to put some wear on that heavy western or 320gsm sweat! Yup, now is the time we get our money’s worth!
Anyways, onto this evening. This evening we have a great 10@10 feature with Mohsin from @endrime. Mohsin is Denim. Mohsin knows lots about Denim. Mohsin pretty much lives his entire life in the warpy world of Denim.
Designer = Check
Cutter = Check
Consultant = Check
Manufacturer = Check
Teacher = Check
Brand Starter = Check
Workshop Co-ordinator = Check
Visionary = Check
Mohsin works tirelessly to push, his and in general, the denim envelope out there just that little more each day and despite all this he still found time for little ol’ us here at clobbercalm HQ (for now, still the island in my kitchen).
He’s a tip-top bloke and an all-around nice guy so let’s move over and let him take the lead from here.
MEET THE BRAND BEHIND THE MENSWEAR
NAME: Mohsin Sajid
POSITION: Owner / Creative Director / Designer
ESTABLISHED: July 2012, but started ENDRIME concept 1 year earlier around July 2011 before I trademarked / registered the company.
LOCATION: London, Hong Kong and Japan
SIZE OF TEAM: Me and my wife Sadia, plus business partner Ringo and his team in HK.
SPECIALITY/COMPANY FOCUS: Well made denim / workwear garments, focus on clean construction – some dart manipulation. Using mostly Japanese denim and some Cone Denim from USA.
1. Straight forward, please tell us, how did your company ENDRIME start out? (For people that don’t already know)
I’ve been a denim designer for over 15 years, and worked for some of the best, from Levi’s Japan, Edwin, Evisu to DKNY – more recently I was head of Timberland Denim Dept for over 3 years – I’ve also consulted for Abercrombie and Fitch and many other companies on denim design, and fabric / wash development. I’ve lived outside the UK for most of my career, living in Italy, Germany, Switzerland and Singapore. I moved back to the UK around July 2012, then registered ENDRIME, and SHITDENIM (my other denim concept) and started consulting for Timberland and teaching part time at the Royal College of Arts, Masters Students.
For the past 10 years I have been heavily collecting vintage workwear and vintage sewing machines. Creating an archive for my self and future studio – I always wanted to make my own jeans, so naturally in all the jobs I had learnt about the production process. While in these jobs I would visit Denim production factories in Japan and China, and Italy – so I gradually made a wishlist of types of specialist machines I needed and started collecting slowly – I only using vintage 1920s to 1950s Unions Specials and old Singers in my own production – so it began there…ENDRIME, this July 2017, is 5 years old.
How ENDRIME started was basically 1st wanted to pattern cut a few fits that had not been tried before, in my regular denim designer jobs I had, (it was really for my own self interest really) in the denim world – most designers I meet are not that well trained, or don’t understand true fit or constitution – As I’m a trained fashion designer, ( I specialised in women’s design in my BA Hons) I know how to pattern cut and sew to a high level – So I wanted ENDRIME to focus on lost construction ideas (like 1 piece fly) but also try make a style with out over lockers – I still can’t believe so many brands pass off cheap production as premium product – so my core value has always been modern clean tailored denim – using only the best materials – and being 100% transparent about where in making my styles, where the fabrics coming from and all with a high level of production – I was the 1st brand to start communicating with mills I was working with, as I have labels inside each of my jeans from “made with Kaihara, cone, collect etc” and I was the 1st to tell the customer which sewing machines where used in each of my jeans – I mostly still get excited on clean / complicated construction – and have done from the very start of my fashion training from 1997 – when I started patterning cutting for the 1st time.
2. Tell us. What does a day in the life of yourself look like? What’s your daily work routine?
I very much am multitasking designer / creative director –
The last 6 months have been non stop – I have been a part of a small team (together with my wife Sadia Rafique) that’s been designing garments for USGROUP – for there PV DENIM and Kingpin collections –
Basically we have been using USGROUPS fabrics and made about 80 different garments, we also shot 7 photoshoots and 7 videos simultaneously –
If I’m not designing trend garments, or visiting clients, I’m designing and planning my own ENDRIME collection. Which I mostly use Japanese denim and pattern cut the collection in my own studio.
And when I’m not busy with ENDRIME or the US GROUP I’m planning a lecture or workshop for students, as I teach denim and workwear design at the Royal college of Art, and RAVENSBOURNE. I’ve just been asked to teach at London College of Fashion from next year – This would make it my 9th university I teach at as I’m in heavy rotation –
I also somehow, every 3 months, run denim workshops at Blackhorse lane, which I also helped establish 2 years ago.
Basically I’m always busy!!! –
I am constantly designing new styles on a daily basis for many high street companies – or researching new fabric / denim constructions and designing washing treatments for my many clients – US GROUP being the main one.
I consult for a few companies as well as designing my own ENDRIME collection season, and I’m collabrating with a few secret brands under the ENDRIME – so there’s a main thing in the pipe line.
Most days I’m designing washing treatments for US DENIM mills or working on a new Selvedge concept for them. Also the last few years organising Japanese denim sponsorship for UK students – last year one of my students Hannah Jenkins I mentored won £50,000 H&M Design award.
3. What are your top 3 bestselling items? And why do you think this is?
At ENDRIME We are best know for our Ergonomic modern tailored fits – so our 06 style and 08 tapered fits – but our best selling items are our slim 05 fit and our tailored jacket styles, which are very complicated to sew – especially for their curved darts on the sleeves and hidden Selvedge details –
4. What’s your personal favourite garment when it comes to the items you manufacture?
I love hiding details – which our customers discover; for example – we use a 1930s Union Special beltloop machine which we have adapted to take cording – so it becomes a 3D beltloop machine – This detail comes alive after few weeks of wear – we also leather back at our rivets and buttons – and follow old method of sewing with a continuous stitch round the leather patch- – we also stamp on our pocket bags each machine we use, and use 14oz twill pocketing – these jeans should outlast the wearer.
5. What are your thoughts on the rise of Instagram fashion and the chaps that post their clothing on there to help spread the word of their fave brands?
I love Instagram – we have made lots of friends using it and have gained lots of fan messages from all over the world – I have made / found many like minded friends who are into collecting vintage machines and so on, so it’s amazing, we often get buyers from far away places who found us from Instagram –
We do get a lot of people asking for free garments who post images of them wearing it – we just like word of mouth – and don’t use any PR company –
6. Has it made an impact on your business at all, do you think?
For sure, Instagram is very important for us – as we often get feedback straight away.
7. Is there any feeds on IG that you particularly like to check-in on regular. What brands are you fond of on there? What menswear feeds to you like to peruse?
8. A quick one about you. Other than the business, what passions do you have in life? What flicks your switch and helps you relax?
I generally mix my work with my lifestyle – I enjoy traveling – every 2 weeks I’m at a different airport – I generally enjoy good food, like Thai and Japanese – watching films and playing video games. This year we have been also designing our own house and studio – so that’s taking up all of our time.
9. What do you consider to be the best thing about your business and why?
The fact I know every thing about it, I dont delegate very much – and still very hands on – I’ve designed all the systems from tech packs to how we work with each factory – I’m quite strange as I like the hard part (tech packing and fitting) and pattern cutting and sewing – most designers I know – get others to do this job.
10. And Lucky Last, You’re going to be stranded on a desert island and you can take 1 outfit (4 items) only with you. And 1 choice of drink.
What would they be? And Why?
1. Levi’s type 1 Jkt
2. White tee shirt
3. ENDRIME chambray Selvedge shirt
4. ENDRIME type 05 jean
5. Volvic Water
Mohsin, it’s been a pleasure buddy. A true honour to add you to club 10@10 and I know our readers will have enjoyed today’s dose of denim addiction. Also, a quick thanks to Amy of @denimdudes for pointing me in the ENDRIME direction! Awesome Stuff Amy! Much appreciated.
Okay so what else we got this week; we have an update on the @clobbercalm.threadsnfades2017 project, Wednesday we are busy with a product review on what may be the world’s best bootlaces (the fact fits but I need to put them to the test myself), Thursday sees us chat to @michaelysoo for the next 10@10 edition and then we finish the week with a ‘Denim Map’.
Lets keep rolling brothers. Stay close. Speak Soon.